Hi.  I am needing to get in contact with Jim France.  Does anyone know how I can
reach him?  Thank you.

Hi, I believe he is in Titusville FLA. I do not know his email or phone #. I
know some one out there must. Good luck,Vern (in RI)
   -----Original Message-----
   From: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of gmarbach2000
   Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 9:55 AM
   To: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [eagle-bus-nuts] Finding Jim





   Hi. I am needing to get in contact with Jim France. Does anyone know how I
can reach him? Thank you.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Have you tryed jimfrance@... or off.[321] 867-8322 or [321] 867-8323
or cell[321] 698-9354 good luck




________________________________
From: gmarbach2000 <manager@...>
To: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2009 7:55:18 AM
Subject: [eagle-bus-nuts] Finding Jim





Hi. I am needing to get in contact with Jim France. Does anyone know how I can
reach him? Thank you.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Joyce,

Thanks for your message.  I agree with everything that you said.  We had
very few problems on the road with the bus.  It was a lot of fun
converting it and traveling in it.

I hope that somebody will get years of enjoyment out of it.

It is a really good running bus.

Thanks again,

Jim



Jim France

Field Engineer

Honeywell Aerospace - Glendale, AZ

Kennedy Space Center, Florida

Office (321) 867-8322

Fax (321) 867-8323

Cell (321) 698-9354

jim.france@... <mailto:michael.duggan@...>








Hi Jim,
I just had to reply to your last remark concerning your bus........it
must go, there are to many memories. I am having the same reality check.
I hope the other eagle busnuts that read it, take advantage of seeing
what's over that next hill and enjoy every minute, even the bad ones !
When your sitting on the side of the road broke down, its going to cost
you ,you're going to be pissed and vow to sell the meserable piece of
junk just as soon as you get it fixed, but when its all over and done,
there's more hills to climb,more memories to make and it will make a
great story when you meet up with other bus people !
The sad part of the story is, it doesn't matter how much money you've
put
in to it, when it comes time to sell it, no one wants to give you a 10th
of that, they just know they can build it better and cheaper. Ha
If anyone would like to see "my memories", go to http//.rvt.com ad
id:4339629, the price is definitely negociable !!
Safe
travels to all, Joyce Kemp
__________________________________________________________
Click to find deals on color printers and inks.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTExMmazYKRtafkwYTcQcx8
rbdw69xpgPNm31hfD7OFjS4O8IMwau0/





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Tip on retrieving something you dropped down the sink.  Just watch... Its quick
and useful!  Good for jewelry!  This is one of those tips you wish you had known
about before you took the sink apart or called the plumber!  It is a great tip
and it saves money... How much better can it get?



Www.familyhack.com/2007/08/29/drain-tip


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi all.  I've found a model 15 up for sale by a Rev in FL.

Here is the link: http://www.nationalmultilist.com/listing.php?listing_id=51671

Now - I know that I shouldn't buy this until/unless we can prove that it starts
up okay and has no major issues - and something that the Rev has already
mentioned is a problem is the "starter".

Assuming we can get a starter on it and that the rest checks out, I thought I
might buy the bus.

But - that's a big assumption for somebody in my situation.  See, while I've
done a fair amount of car repair over the years, I've never EVER worked on a
bus.

Can somebody give me an idea about how much effort I'd be going through to put a
starter on the bus?  If it is something I can probably do, then I was thinking
that I'd tell the Rev that I'd buy the starter and put it on - and then have the
bus checked out thoroughly - and only then decided if I really want to buy it. 
Sound reasonable?  I know others are interested in the bus, too - but this
seemed like the only reasonable way to me...

I'd love to hear what you all think about it.

Thank you!

Gary

first thought is it sounds like a decent bus until I read that it has a V8
7.1 and I am interpreting that to be what is know as an 8-71. The motor
hasn't  been used in years and I don't think it was ever put into a model 15. I
have  been known to be wrong but look this critter over. I think you will
find it is  misinterpreted. If they put a new motor in it 1000 miles ago and
it is down  again. These machines don't usually act that way. It could be an
expensive  proposition to get this machine up to the standards you would
like. Sometimes  changes have been made that become impossible to overcome.
One point is that this is typical cheapo. By that someone that has
mechanical knowledge buys one of these buses and is sure he can figure it out 
when
it comes to getting and keeping it running. In so doing they make changes
that can't easily be undone and it runs for awhile but then you have the
situation that it is in.

WATCH OUT
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585043x1201462775/aol?redir=http://\
www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
JunestepsfooterNO62)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Mike.  Most things that sound too good to be true ARE.

He just sent two batches of nice photos on the bus... but none of them shows the
mechanical - and so, I've asked for pictures of that.

I will ask more questions about the mechanical before I get on a plane to check
it out.

Appreciate your help, Mike.

Gary

check out the idea that if it had an 8-71 the question is why?

Old motor, reliable but not without some problems. A model 15 should have
at least an 6-92 possibly an 8-92 so in the interest of saving money they
make  changes.
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585043x1201462775/aol?redir=http://\
www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
JunestepsfooterNO62)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Good looking bus Gary, no doubt about that. And, the price is reasonable for
sure.
So,the question must be...how much time & money are you willing to invest to get
the bus to where you want it to be.
A few red flags to me is the 8V71, since that engine was used prior to the model
15 indicating the power train has been switched over.


  The 11 mpg statement is optimistic at best...6 - 7 mpg is more believable. I
believe I would ask the Rev to replace the starter prior to your visit if he has
nothing to hide.? Any vehicle is a sum of it's parts, and as such can be made
whole with enough time and money.

Ray




-----Original Message-----
From: gmarbach2000 <manager@...>
To: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 6:33 pm
Subject: [eagle-bus-nuts] replacing a starter on a model 15































Hi all.  I've found a model 15 up for sale by a Rev in FL.



Here is the link: http://www.nationalmultilist.com/listing.php?listing_id=51671



Now - I know that I shouldn't buy this until/unless we can prove that it starts
up okay and has no major issues - and something that the Rev has already
mentioned is a problem is the "starter".



Assuming we can get a starter on it and that the rest checks out, I thought I
might buy the bus.



But - that's a big assumption for somebody in my situation.  See, while I've
done a fair amount of car repair over the years, I've never EVER worked on a
bus.



Can somebody give me an idea about how much effort I'd be going through to put a
starter on the bus?  If it is something I can probably do, then I was thinking
that I'd tell the Rev that I'd buy the starter and put it on - and then have the
bus checked out thoroughly - and only then decided if I really want to buy it. 
Sound reasonable?  I know others are interested in the bus, too - but this
seemed like the only reasonable way to me...



I'd love to hear what you all think about it.



Thank you!



Gary


























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi all; I may be corrected by a lot of other experts on this forum, but
when I looked at the picture. I see the pictured coach being  as follows. It's
a far cry from a Model 15.  1. The listing words says  UPGRADED TO A MODEL
15 - What was it before?.  2. The windshield on a  Model 15 extends all the
way up to the cap break line. The tall windshield was a  complaint from a
lot of 15 owners I've talked to. Their legs would roast.   3. The cap looks
like it has the two indentations where two glass windows could  be put in a
Model 10. The Model 15 had a single window indentation. 4.  The  body in the
picture looks like a Model 05 with 10 caps. I say this because the  doors are
not the same height as the windshield as they were on Model 10's after  the
first production year. - I know there were a few Model 10's off the line
that still had Model 05 Bodies. Every thing I have read says the Model 15 had
at  the least options of the 6v-92, the 8v-92 and the early series 60. I
dont  know but I would be very sceptic. My two cents.  Paul
**************Download the AOL Classifieds Toolbar for local deals at your
fingertips.
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolclassifieds/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000004)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My weight-in on the FL bus, With Paul I agree. However  ...28,000 with no
Automatic Tranmission and a 8v71 motor at last year price it might be a good
deal (if it run-out all right)  but this year it is not a good deal (to many
good deals out there). However, Gray changing a starter is simple. Little heavy
to hold up, till you get the first bolt started, only got 3 bolts, putting it in
is like an starter on and old car, there is plenty of working room on that side
of the engine. And I got an extra one that fits an 8v71 I might loan you to
check the bus out. I am in Lavergne, TN James

This is great.  Thanks for all these thoughts.

Let me summarize what I think you fellas have said:

Mike: Wonder if it's really what they're saying it is - esp wondering why
someone would put and older moter into a newer bus - and wondering why there was
trouble only 1,000 miles into the rebuild.  They may have done modifications
that could now be hard to overcome.

Ray: it's reasonably priced, but may need more investment to end up where need
to be.  Make sure of what you are really getting and double check things like
the gas mileage (11 is too high for this bus).  Overall, might be okay in the
long run.  Either way - suggest that the Rev replace the starter and THEN go out
to see if you want the bus.

Paul: this is probably a model 05 that has had a few changes made.  Newer model
would have newer motor (or newer replacement motor).  Be careful of what you're
hearing on this bus.

James: Paul's right.  Price isn't bad but you can do better - esp this year. 
Changing the starter is easy and you might be able to borrow one and try that
instead of buying one at first.


I'll be careful alright before getting too serious about this bus... Sure
appreciate all the advice!

Gary, The starter is like a big GM starter,like a cars of the 60's and 70's.
The only headache I see is access to it. Is the any part of the conversion
blocking access to it? Batteries, gen set, ect.Typically, access is easy and
changing it is straight forward. It it on the right side (passenger side).
Should take less than an hour, if no conversion parts block it. Definitely
have it checked out. 11 miles to the gallon???? How about all you other bus
nuts out there? Can you reach 11 miles per gallon??? Definitely get the
coach checked out by someone in the know. Good luck, Vern (in RI)
   -----Original Message-----
   From: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of gmarbach2000
   Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 6:33 PM
   To: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [eagle-bus-nuts] replacing a starter on a model 15





   Hi all. I've found a model 15 up for sale by a Rev in FL.

   Here is the link:
http://www.nationalmultilist.com/listing.php?listing_id=51671

   Now - I know that I shouldn't buy this until/unless we can prove that it
starts up okay and has no major issues - and something that the Rev has
already mentioned is a problem is the "starter".

   Assuming we can get a starter on it and that the rest checks out, I
thought I might buy the bus.

   But - that's a big assumption for somebody in my situation. See, while
I've done a fair amount of car repair over the years, I've never EVER worked
on a bus.

   Can somebody give me an idea about how much effort I'd be going through to
put a starter on the bus? If it is something I can probably do, then I was
thinking that I'd tell the Rev that I'd buy the starter and put it on - and
then have the bus checked out thoroughly - and only then decided if I really
want to buy it. Sound reasonable? I know others are interested in the bus,
too - but this seemed like the only reasonable way to me...

   I'd love to hear what you all think about it.

   Thank you!

   Gary






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I agree with Paul. It looks to be a remodeled 05 That is why the 8V71.
Although an older motor, no reason not to go see it. I would insist on the
coach in drivable condition before booking any tickets. Have the Rev get the
coach accessed by some  one(of your choosing) in the know. Period ! Only
then would I go see it and maybe have it re accessed by that same someone
and yourself. I think the Rev inadvertently mis stated (not necessarily mis
represented the fact that is was a Model 15. I think (assumption) that the
Rev was advised it was "updated to look like a Model 15". I think that may
be the mis understanding. Yes, do get it running first. Vern (in RI)
   -----Original Message-----
   From: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of apfochrist@...
   Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 11:22 PM
   To: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: Re: [eagle-bus-nuts] replacing a starter on a model 15





   Hi all; I may be corrected by a lot of other experts on this forum, but
   when I looked at the picture. I see the pictured coach being as follows.
It's
   a far cry from a Model 15. 1. The listing words says UPGRADED TO A MODEL
   15 - What was it before?. 2. The windshield on a Model 15 extends all the
   way up to the cap break line. The tall windshield was a complaint from a
   lot of 15 owners I've talked to. Their legs would roast. 3. The cap looks
   like it has the two indentations where two glass windows could be put in a
   Model 10. The Model 15 had a single window indentation. 4. The body in the
   picture looks like a Model 05 with 10 caps. I say this because the doors
are
   not the same height as the windshield as they were on Model 10's after the
   first production year. - I know there were a few Model 10's off the line
   that still had Model 05 Bodies. Every thing I have read says the Model 15
had
   at the least options of the 6v-92, the 8v-92 and the early series 60. I
   dont know but I would be very sceptic. My two cents. Paul
   **************Download the AOL Classifieds Toolbar for local deals at your
   fingertips.
   (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolclassifieds/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown0000
0004)

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have been trying without success to reach
Craig Hanloh and/or Sliver Eagle for two weeks. Does
anyone know if this company is still operational.
I ordered some parts nearly two months and still
need them.

John

I saw Craig a last week at the plant ....they are is the process of relocating
to Nashville and he was swamped to say the least .....moving that plant and all
the tooling and jigs is no small feat ....I would keep trying. The delay could
be that the parts are in semi trailer # 42 ..LOL ....he had a lot of trucks
there !!!  

--- On Wed, 6/10/09, john@... <john@...> wrote:


From: john@... <john@...>
Subject: [eagle-bus-nuts] Silver Eagle Bus Mfg.
To: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, June 10, 2009, 1:04 PM








I have been trying without success to reach
Craig Hanloh and/or Sliver Eagle for two weeks. Does
anyone know if this company is still operational.
I ordered some parts nearly two months and still
need them.

John
















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Michael

Thanks for the info.....

> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: [SPAM] Re: [eagle-bus-nuts] Silver Eagle Bus Mfg.
> From: Michael Rotta <michael.rotta@...>
> Date: Wed, June 10, 2009 1:22 pm
> To: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
> I saw Craig a last week at the plant ....they are is the process of relocating
to Nashville and he was swamped to say the least .....moving that plant and all
the tooling and jigs is no small feat ....I would keep trying. The delay could
be that the parts are in semi trailer # 42 ..LOL ....he had a lot of trucks
there !!!  
> --- On Wed, 6/10/09, john@... <john@...> wrote:
> From: john@... <john@...>
> Subject: [eagle-bus-nuts] Silver Eagle Bus Mfg.
> To: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, June 10, 2009, 1:04 PM
> I have been trying without success to reach
> Craig Hanloh and/or Sliver Eagle for two weeks. Does
> anyone know if this company is still operational.
> I ordered some parts nearly two months and still
> need them.
> John
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Full-timing with four kids and a dog in a 1968 05, I've figured out why my steer
tires are cupping--the drive axle is out of alignment.  I had wondered what
those long bars were for!  Mine have been broken and welded and reinforced, but
apparently not aligned well.  I did need a constant steering correction slightly
to the left, but I never thought it was more than wind or road crown--could be
the power steering masked how much pull was in there.  Anyway, the guy I was
going to have align the thing said that at least one of the bushings holding
those bars is shot which would not let him get a good alignment or has caused
the misalignment in the first place.  From my parts book I'm thinking it's part
number 01-0200-011, also referenced as -BUSHING RUBBER   B-759.

Does anyone know a source for these?

Is anything else involved in aligning the drive axle other than adjusting these
stabilizing bars?

How are the bogeys aligned?

Thanks for any help.

Michael

We're missionaries spending 2 to 4 years at a time on a boat in the Amazon
region of Brazil and then 6 months to 1 year back in the USA reporting to our
supporting churches and raising funds for the next term.  This is why we live in
the 1968 05 full time.  We're contemplating adopting a couple more kids in the
next few years.  Right now in the 05 we're at the practical limit of family
size.  We have two girls on a pull-out couch, one boy on the dinette and another
on a cushion on the floor.  I may work on building a train-berth style fold-down
bunk above the driver.  We also have a walk-through bath that would be perfect
for a couple, but with our kids already at 8, 7, 6 & 4, privacy will soon be
more of an issue than it currently is, so a side-bath I think would work better.

SO, I'm keeping my eyes out for a 45' bus to convert in which we could put two
three-tiered 6' bunks and only lose 1' of the length of our current floor plan. 
Ideally it would be one that has already been started, drive-train in good
shape, gutted, roof raised, windows installed, that I could take the essential
expensive bits from my 1968 05 (generator, inverter, water tanks, water heater,
toilet, furnaces, air conditioners, fridge, stove, furniture, etc.) and install
in the 45' shell for a minimum time and expense conversion.  I'd let my great
running 05 go then for maybe $5k with 8v71, auto trans, beautiful custom dash
and electrical system, air throttle, cruise, power steering, roof raised, rv
windows, for someone else to start cheaply with a good base.

Of course, as missionaries, we're getting by on less than $25k/year, so the
cheaper the better, certainly less than $20k, preferably more like $15k.  I love
the Eagles--a Model 15 would be wonderful, but as rare as the 45 footers are in
my less than $20k price range, I've started looking at other options.

Forgive me if this is too far off topic, but I've found no VanHool bus nuts
site. My wandering eye has noticed that 45' VanHools are much more plentiful
than 45' Model 15s and comparatively newer for the equivalent price.  They also
have taller luggage bays (43") which would make a joey bed more possible. 
Anyone know if the passenger compartment is sufficiently tall to insulate and
not need to be raised?  I'm not afraid of raising the roof since I'd panel the
side anyway to be able to install openable windows--we RARELY use AC as we're
normally boondocking (if I could afford campgrounds, I'd stay in a hotel!).  I
also haven't been able to find any specs detailing the differences between 845,
945, 2045 and 2145 models.  Has anyone out there evaluated VanHools in their
search for the ideal conversion shell?  Know of any other brand specific
conversion details that must be addressed?

I know the deals are few and far between, but they are out there.

Thanks for any advice and help.

Michael

I have an Eagle with 6V92 and HT740.  How can I test the lockup function?  The
trans shifts so smoothly that I can't detect the lockup.
What gear and what speed should It lockup?

Just keep smiling every trip. You Are fortunate.
81 6V92

--- On Thu, 6/11/09, leonwhitt323 <leonwhitt323@...> wrote:


From: leonwhitt323 <leonwhitt323@...>
Subject: [eagle-bus-nuts] Allison torque converter lockup
To: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, June 11, 2009, 7:32 PM








I have an Eagle with 6V92 and HT740. How can I test the lockup function? The
trans shifts so smoothly that I can't detect the lockup.
What gear and what speed should It lockup?



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Your Allison should shift as follows:

1st - 2nd   1900 to 2050 RPM
Lockup      2000 RPM
2nd - 3rd    2025 to 2100 RPM
3rd - 4th    2000 - 2100
**************Download the AOL Classifieds Toolbar for local deals at your
fingertips.
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolclassifieds/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000004)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Does anyone have information on a 12 blade fan or ? for a 91 Eagle? We have
replaced the radiator, (new core, not rebuilt) new hydraulic motor (not rebuilt)
bypassed the hydraulic thermostat, and are still experiencing over heating if we
try to drive 70 to 75 on the highway in the summer time. I've also heard about
another option, a company possibly in Colorado that gets rid of all the
hydraulics and drive the fan mechanically. any help would be appreciated. buddy
pitezel




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Here you go.  Read these posts.
 
http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=1464.30
 
http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=4808.15
 
This was my solution.  It has worked very well.
 
David

--- On Thu, 6/18/09, Buddy Pitezel <quartetmusic2006@...> wrote:


From: Buddy Pitezel <quartetmusic2006@...>
Subject: [eagle-bus-nuts] Eagle Bus Cooling
To: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, June 18, 2009, 8:19 AM








Does anyone have information on a 12 blade fan or ? for a 91 Eagle? We have
replaced the radiator, (new core, not rebuilt) new hydraulic motor (not rebuilt)
bypassed the hydraulic thermostat, and are still experiencing over heating if we
try to drive 70 to 75 on the highway in the summer time. I've also heard about
another option, a company possibly in Colorado that gets rid of all the
hydraulics and drive the fan mechanically. any help would be appreciated. buddy
pitezel

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com, Buddy Pitezel
<quartetmusic2006@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have information on a 12 blade fan or ? for a 91 Eagle? We
have replaced the radiator, (new core, not rebuilt) new hydraulic motor
(not rebuilt) bypassed the hydraulic thermostat, and are still
experiencing over heating if we try to drive 70 to 75 on the highway in
the summer time. I've also heard about another option, a company
possibly in Colorado that gets rid of all the hydraulics and drive the
fan mechanically. any help would be appreciated. buddy pitezel
>
>
>Buddy, I never knew of anyone that didn't have a problem cooling the
Eagle with a hydraulic fan motor.It would help if we knew what size your
radiator  they used 3 different sizes.I own a model 5 and have a
4ftx4ftx7 rows of cores and it keeps my 8v92 cool running off the mitre
box.If you can find a model 15 parts book it show how to hook up a
manual fan drive and you can use you belt that drives the pump now with
out the mitre box.I am converting over to this to do away with the mitre
box.It shows the angle drive at the top were your fan motor is now and a
2 speed fan clutch.Prevost buses use the same system.FWIW don't let
anyone talk you into the mitre box hook up it robs your engine of a
great amount of HP and are costly when overhauled.I am not able to post
photos here but can on www.eaglesinternational.net
<http://www.eaglesinternational.net>      good luck
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Buddy,
 
One caveat about the link I sent on the fan upgrade.  I have a mechanical drive
fan off the mitre box.  As Lvrbus stated you may still have difficulty making
this work with hydraulic drives.   However, you still would have a new fan that
I know works and could be kept in service even if you switch to mechanical
drive.
 
David

--- On Thu, 6/18/09, luvrbus <luvrbus@...> wrote:


From: luvrbus <luvrbus@...>
Subject: [eagle-bus-nuts] Re: Eagle Bus Cooling
To: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, June 18, 2009, 5:53 PM









--- In eagle-bus-nuts@ yahoogroups. com, Buddy Pitezel
<quartetmusic2006@ ...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have information on a 12 blade fan or ? for a 91 Eagle? We
have replaced the radiator, (new core, not rebuilt) new hydraulic motor
(not rebuilt) bypassed the hydraulic thermostat, and are still
experiencing over heating if we try to drive 70 to 75 on the highway in
the summer time. I've also heard about another option, a company
possibly in Colorado that gets rid of all the hydraulics and drive the
fan mechanically. any help would be appreciated. buddy pitezel
>
>
>Buddy, I never knew of anyone that didn't have a problem cooling the
Eagle with a hydraulic fan motor.It would help if we knew what size your
radiator they used 3 different sizes.I own a model 5 and have a
4ftx4ftx7 rows of cores and it keeps my 8v92 cool running off the mitre
box.If you can find a model 15 parts book it show how to hook up a
manual fan drive and you can use you belt that drives the pump now with
out the mitre box.I am converting over to this to do away with the mitre
box.It shows the angle drive at the top were your fan motor is now and a
2 speed fan clutch.Prevost buses use the same system.FWIW don't let
anyone talk you into the mitre box hook up it robs your engine of a
great amount of HP and are costly when overhauled.I am not able to post
photos here but can on www.eaglesinternati onal.net
<http://www.eaglesin ternational. net> good luck
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have the same problem on my 1989 eagle 15, Im running an  8v71 ddec
engine, as long as you stay around 60 mph no problem. I have heard of  all of
the
choices, not sure any of them really work. I also heard of one more  thing
some body suggested, they have some antifreeze now that claims to cool the
engine an additional 15 degrees, was wondering if anyone had tried that
option.


In a message dated 6/18/2009 9:21:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
quartetmusic2006@... writes:





Does anyone have information on a 12 blade fan or ? for a 91 Eagle? We have
  replaced the radiator, (new core, not rebuilt) new hydraulic motor (not
rebuilt) bypassed the hydraulic thermostat, and are still experiencing over
heating if we try to drive 70 to 75 on the highway in the summer time. I've
also heard about another option, a company possibly in Colorado that gets
rid  of all the hydraulics and drive the fan mechanically. any help would be
appreciated. buddy pitezel

[Non-text portions of this message have been  removed]





**************Dell Inspiron 15: Now starting at $349
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222435718x1201460505/aol?redir=http:%2\
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

about  5 years ago I installed a radiator from a 60 foot articulating bus and a
miter box I bought new from a parts house in my 5  with the 8V92 and no more
problems. That huge miter box can be replaced with one of several  1 1/4" shafts
right angle drive units that are available and they work great without the huge
cost and they are less than half the size of the old miter box . The right angle
drive cost me $145 new

Loydd
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Dlemay5085@...
   To: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 4:40 AM
   Subject: Re: [eagle-bus-nuts] Eagle Bus Cooling





   I have the same problem on my 1989 eagle 15, Im running an 8v71 ddec
   engine, as long as you stay around 60 mph no problem. I have heard of all of
the
   choices, not sure any of them really work. I also heard of one more thing
   some body suggested, they have some antifreeze now that claims to cool the
   engine an additional 15 degrees, was wondering if anyone had tried that
   option.


   In a message dated 6/18/2009 9:21:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
   quartetmusic2006@... writes:

   Does anyone have information on a 12 blade fan or ? for a 91 Eagle? We have
   replaced the radiator, (new core, not rebuilt) new hydraulic motor (not
   rebuilt) bypassed the hydraulic thermostat, and are still experiencing over
   heating if we try to drive 70 to 75 on the highway in the summer time. I've
   also heard about another option, a company possibly in Colorado that gets
   rid of all the hydraulics and drive the fan mechanically. any help would be
   appreciated. buddy pitezel

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

   **************Dell Inspiron 15: Now starting at $349
  
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222435718x1201460505/aol?redir=http:%2\
F%2Fad.doubleclick.
   net%2Fclk%3B215748553%3B38126199%3Bs)

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

More than 25 years ago, Bob Howell (founder and father of the Eagles) ran a
much modified non-DDEC 8-92 in his Eagle and it made around 550-600 HP,
according to the several dyno runs he made before each installation (the
engine was out several times for modifications, including a switch to a
Fuller 10spd RoadRanger and later (as Bob's health declined, he switched
back to an Allison).  He used 2 model 10 radiators, mechanical miter boxes
driving full-time fans with fan enclosure ducts and a engine hatch with
large louvers made from Eagle material.  He lived in the Apple
Valley/Hesperia area, near Victorville,CA and didn't have cooling problems.


It's the physics, gentlemen !  You need more square inches of radiator with
more fins, more gallons of coolant, and a airflow path out of the engine
compartment with the least resistance.  Since the bus creates a low pressure
area directly behind the center of the bus while moving at 60+ mph, venting
the engine compartment into that low pressure area gains fan efficiency and
moves more air over the engine heads and exhaust manifolds (blanketed or
non-blanketed, they still give off lots of heat!).   To augment radiator
efficiency, he installed 2 rows of "chicken-fogger" spray bars on each
radiator.  I did the same, and it reduced my coolant temp by 12 degrees when
pulling the Baker grade in August with a 3/4 ton pickup toad behind.  John
Duckett installed a 8-92 in his '04 and used twin '04 radiators as part of
the conversion, rather than do it later, thus eliminating the problem before
it became a problem.

That worked and I chased Bob Howell up the Baker grade in August on several
occasions.  He didn't stop to cool off, he slowed down at the top and waited
for me to catch up !

Just my $.02,

Lonnie

PS:  For those of you guys who don't know what a "chicken-fogger" is, go to
your local feed store and ask them to show you one.  They come in different
inlet NPT sizes and GPM ratings.  You want small foggers that will handle 1
GPM max and throttle them down.  I use 6 foggers on my single radiator, 3 on
one bar at the top of the radiator and 3 on another bar half-way down.   The
foggers are supplied with water from the fresh water system with a separate
small volume water pump and electric check-valve to prevent siphoning (my
fresh water is above floor level, inside the queen bed in the rear of the
bus. Without the anti-siphon valve, my fresh water would just flow at all
times.)  A on-off switch with a red indicator light on the dash supplies
power to the pump and the check-valve, with the red light reminding me that
I am pumping water to the radiator.   Saves water after that hill has been
climbed !

-------Original Message-------

From: Dlemay5085@...
Date: 06/19/09 04:42:05
To: eagle-bus-nuts@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [eagle-bus-nuts] Eagle Bus Cooling




I have the same problem on my 1989 eagle 15, Im running an 8v71 ddec
engine, as long as you stay around 60 mph no problem. I have heard of all of
the
choices, not sure any of them really work. I also heard of one more thing
some body suggested, they have some antifreeze now that claims to cool the
engine an additional 15 degrees, was wondering if anyone had tried that
option.


In a message dated 6/18/2009 9:21:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
quartetmusic2006@... writes:

Does anyone have information on a 12 blade fan or ? for a 91 Eagle? We have
replaced the radiator, (new core, not rebuilt) new hydraulic motor (not
rebuilt) bypassed the hydraulic thermostat, and are still experiencing over
heating if we try to drive 70 to 75 on the highway in the summer time. I've
also heard about another option, a company possibly in Colorado that gets
rid of all the hydraulics and drive the fan mechanically. any help would be
appreciated. buddy pitezel

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

**************Dell Inspiron 15: Now starting at $349
(http://pr.atwola
com/promoclk/100126575x1222435718x1201460505/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad
doubleclick.
net%2Fclk%3B215748553%3B38126199%3Bs)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]